If Your Volvo Trailing Arm Bushings Look Like This:

 

Photos Courtesy of Art Benstein

You Need This:

Homebrew Volvo Trailing Arm Bushing Tool

Special thanks to Jim Holst for taking the time to do the measurements on the actual Volvo tool, Don Foster for the tip on using 2" NPT End Caps, and my buddy Psycho for helping me set this web page up. I've added some pictures from Art Benstein who is another one of the Brickboard guys. He did what I should have done - took pictures while building the tool and while it was on the car. All of the machining and "on car" pictures are courtesy of Art. Thanks a lot for the pictures, Art!

 

After finding out the cost of a genuine Volvo Trailing Arm Bushing Tool was about $190, I decided to try  to build my own. With the help of the guys mentioned above and a little time spent in the workshop, I came up with this concoction for under $20. And you don't need any "special" tools to create it. I found it to be very sturdy, and after the bushing job was done, there were no real signs of wear on the parts. Without a doubt, the toughest item to manufacture was the part of the tool that pushes the bushing out, but even that wasn't really hard. Just took a little time and patience. By the way, I don't know if it was the camera, the lighting, or the background, but the parts used are silver  or black colored, not gold colored. Also, Warren Kernaghan  asked me to mention that this tool is used on the 240 series cars, and not the 700/900 series. I'm not sure if it fits all years, but you can take a look at your rear suspension and determine that. 

Some of the people on the Brickboard asked me to post the techniques I used to build it, and I'm in their debt for years of help, so here it is. If you do decide to build the tool, I'd be interested to hear how it went. You can contact me at the bottom of the page. 

 

NOTE: Some people have mentioned that they're having problems with the coupler. I don't know what they are buying, but when you're buying the coupler, take your new bushing with you and make sure that it fits into the coupler. It should slide in smoothly with a little wiggle room. The NPT caps should easily screw all the way into the coupler. If it doesn't, you don't have the right coupler. Yes, I know that a tapered plug would have a tendency to tighten as it's screwed in, but if you've got the right coupler, it won't.

 

                                                                                                                                                                                      Photo Courtesy of Art Benstein

More Pictures of the Tool on Art's car

ToolOnCar1.jpg (576009 bytes)  ToolOnCar2.jpg (591884 bytes)  ToolOnCar4.jpg (620358 bytes)

Parts Needed:

Qty.1    8-1/2"-20 Grade 8 Bolt (specifically chosen for it's strength and fine pitch thread)

Qty.1    1/2"-20 Grade 8 Nut (specifically chosen for it's strength and fine pitch thread)

Qty.2    1/2" Washers

Qty.2    2" NPSC (National Pipe Straight Coupling) Fully Threaded Coupling, 2" length

Qty.2     2" NPT Steel End caps

 

 

Tools needed to fabricate bushing tool

Fabrication instructions

  Item A

Item A) This is the bushing pusher.

1. Use the hand file on the top of the end cap to file a flat surface. 

            Here's Art working on his.  partatop1.jpg (52830 bytes)  

            After futzing with the file, Art opted for more power.   partatop2.jpg (67483 bytes)  

2. If you've got a 1/2" drill, drill a 1/2" inch hole in the center of the cap. If you've only got a 3/8" drill, drill a 3/8" hole in the center. Try to get the hole as close to the center as possible. There's some room for slop, but not much. Art had a couple of methods he used to find the center. And yet another simpler way to find the center... Dennis Burns noticed that the inside of the cap has a concave dimple on it. Dennis used that as the center mark for the cap and drilled it out from the bottom. He said that after drilling, the hole wasn't centered on the top surface of the cap, but it was centered to the circumference of the cap, which is the most important thing. Thanks for the tip, Dennis!

             findingcenterparta1.jpg (58590 bytes)   findingcenterparta2.jpg (52157 bytes)   findingcenterparta4.jpg (58820 bytes)  

3. Insert the 2" long 3/8" (or 1/2") bolt so the threads of the bolt are sticking out the top of the cap. Put the nut on the bolt and tighten it. Put the shaft of the bolt in the drill chuck and tighten it down.

4. Using your bench grinder, hold the drill with the end cap and bolt at a right angle to the stone face. The direction of rotation of the bench grinder is down, so the rotation of the drill with the end cap will be up. Move the cap back and forth across the face of the stone until you achieve an outside diameter of 2.184". It's better to make it a little bigger than smaller. Stop and measure often. This took me about a half hour to do this. Art came up with a quicker method using an electric motor and special arbor tool. 

            Here's part A mounted up.  millingparta1.jpg (63882 bytes)   

            Here's the arbor tool he used.   arbortool.jpg (43830 bytes)     

            And here's the machining in process. Man, do I love sparks!  millingparta3.jpg (61913 bytes)  

 5. With the end cap still in the drill chuck, turn the bottom of the end cap towards the stone, and put a nice flat surface on the bottom of the cap. This is the surface that will contact the bushing. This is what it should look like when it's done.

             parta1.jpg (43549 bytes)   parta2.jpg (50166 bytes)

6. Remove the bolt from the end cap. If you used a 3/8" drill, use the 1/2" drill bit with the 3/8" shank to achieve a 1/2" diameter hole in the top of the end cap.

 

Item B and C

Item B) This is one part of the bushing receiver

Item C) This is the other part of the bushing receiver. It screws into Item B.

  1. Follow steps 1 and 2  from Item A.

  2. Drill a 1/2" hole in the center of the cap.

Item D) This is the bolt that you'll turn to move the bushing pusher. Grease the threads when you use it.

Item E) This is the piece that fits between the 2 brackets that hold the bushing to the axle. It keeps the brackets from bending as you press out the bushing.

  1. Using your hacksaw, (or if you've got a sabre saw with a metal bit) cut the coupler in half length wise.

  2. The dimension that Jim Holst gave me for the width (bracket to bracket) of this piece was 2.124". If you want to use that dimension, you don't have to do any machining to this part. Even though this is supposed to be a 2" width, it's actually 2.125". I thought it was a little to tight, so I ground down the edge to 2.100".

  3. Art Benstein mentioned that sometimes this piece doesn't fit snugly enough to stay on the bracket. He came up with the idea of using a hose clamp to temporarily hold this piece to the bracket. Here's a picture Art sent me. Thanks again, Art!

                         DSCN2532.JPG (605517 bytes)

Note: If you check the inside diameter of this piece against the diameter of the brackets on the axle housing, you'll notice that the this piece is not wide enough. Not to worry. When you place it between the brackets, use a hammer to pound it in. It'll bend to the shape of the bracket.

Item F) The nut on the end of the 8" bolt.

Item G) The washers used at the head end of the 8" bolt. Grease these well before cranking out the bushing.

 

Here's the new bushing installed

Photos once again courtesy of Art Benstein

 

Tips and Hints

 

My Disclaimer: Always use safety glasses, jack stands. I am not responsible for improper use of this tool. This is not an original Volvo Tool. I make no claim as to the quality of construction or it's sturdiness. I just know it worked for me.

Official Disclaimer

Questions, Comments, contact Neal Wilcer

 

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